Vermicomposting At Home

Vermicomposting

Today we will discuss worm treating the soil.

Keeping a manure heap going all year in Maine is a test.

In the event that you’d preferably not walk through the snow to dump your kitchen scraps on your solidified fertilizer heap in the colder time of year, consider setting up a worm treating the soil framework inside.

You can prop this up all year.

Worms will deal with your kitchen scraps, and having a worm container is an extraordinary family venture.

A container of worms entrances youngsters, and it’s likewise an incredible friendly exchange at evening gatherings.

Pilot your new undertaking taking things down a notch, and grow as you learn.

You can graduate to greater and greater worm receptacles, and increasingly more nightcrawler worms as you go, after some time.

To begin, you’ll need a worm canister, some sheet material, some water, the correct sort of worms and some food.

Attempt a 10-gallon plastic tub first off.

This present one’s somewhat greater, it’s 18 gallons.

Drill 8 to 12 quarter-inch openings in the base of the tub for waste, and afterward drill some half-inch openings along the upper edge on the two sides for air course.

Home your tub into a plastic plate on top of squares, or topsy turvy plant pots for my situation.

Try not to stress that the worms will attempt to escape through the openings, they would prefer to remain in the canister except if there’s something incorrectly inside the receptacle.

Your canisters ought to be close to 18 inches down so the material in the receptacle doesn’t turn out to be also compacted.

The worms should have the option to move openly through the container, and they need a lot of air.

Bedding is the medium wherein the worms slither around, and where you cover your food.

It should be light and soggy and cushy.

My #1 bedding is a combination of destroyed fall leaves and wood shavings, which I… the leaves I gather in the fall and run a lawnmower over them, and put them in a pack in my cellar, and the wood shavings I get from a nearby individual who parts wood professionally.

The sort of worms that you requirement for worm fertilizer, or vermiculture are called Red Wiggler or Nightcrawler Worms.

They’re a lot more modest than worms, and they recreate truly well in bondage.

They measure a ton of natural issue, and they wouldn’t fret being upset.

Try not to attempt to do this with the enormous worms that you find in your nursery.

Those worms need to tunnel profoundly in the cool soil, and they don’t endure when kept in a holder.

You can arrange Red Wigglers from a nursery gracefully index or maybe discover them at a trap shop, or on the off chance that you have a companion that has a worm treating the soil container, maybe you can get some from them.

What number of worms do you need, and what would you be able to take care of them?

Indeed, get yourself a little kitchen scale, and gauge the food scraps that you create each day for multi week.

I’m discussing leafy foods scraps, espresso beans, tea packs, and grains.

No meat, bones, greasy items, or dairy.

Worms can measure about a large portion of their weight in food every day.

In the event that you produce a normal of four ounces of food scraps every day, at that point you would require eight ounces of worms in your canister so as to deal with the food that you will add consistently.

In the event that you start with a more modest measure of worms, simply feed them less.

Their populace will develop, and you’ll have the option to take care of them more over the long run.

At the point when you get your worms, you need to sprinkle them on top of the bedding.

Keep in mind, the bedding should be overall quite wet.

At that point put the top on the receptacle.

They will rapidly tunnel down into the bedding.

On your top, take a bit of paper and draw a lattice with eight equivalent segments.

Each time you feed your worms, you’ll put the food in an alternate area, and you can stamp the date that you put it then there.

You’ll go a clockwise way around the container.

The worms will follow the food source.

When you return to that first spot, you should at this point don’t perceive the food that you put in there.

On the off chance that you can in any case observe conspicuous food, at that point you shouldn’t put any longer in until it’s gone.

I put eight ounces of worms in this soggy sheet material, and here I have four ounces of food scraps.

I will begin in the segment number one, simply pull the bedding aside and cover the food shallowly.

That is the degree of how you feed them.

You set the top back on, and put the receptacle in its settling plate.

Be cautious that you don’t over-burden your canister with food.

In the event that you do, it can turn out to be malodorous and you can build up a natural product fly issue.

You need to go at the movement that the worms can burn-through.

Take it gradually.

It’s not unexpected to see molds and exceptionally little animals inside your worm canister.

They’re all essential for the worm receptacle web of life.

Presently here we’re quick sending to a canister that has been working for a while.

It appears to be very unique in here, a lot more obscure material.

The canister will bit by bit load up with worm droppings or worm castings as they devour the food and the bedding that you put in here.

This is a supplement rich material that you can put on your nursery.

When at regular intervals, you will need to collect the castings from the container, and afterward set the worms back in with crisp sheet material to prop them up.

Get yourself a sheet of plastic, and afterward scoop out the treated the soil material.

You can make a little windrow or some little cone-formed heaps.

The worms that are in this material will rapidly tunnel down to the lower part of the heap.

They don’t care for being presented to light or dry air.

One approach to make them move somewhat more rapidly is to set up a light and sparkle it directly on the heap.

You need to stand by a couple of moments, just ceaselessly disregard the treated the soil material.

The worms will keep on tunneling down to the lower part of the heap to where inevitably all you’ll have left is a heap of worms, and an isolated heap of treated the soil material.

This is the material that can go in my nursery with no guarantees, or I can make a little quarter inch screen and run it through that.

At that point I get a lot better material that is screened out.

This can be placed in preparing blends.

How to Choose Best Tractors for Small Farm

Tractors for Small Farm

At the point when you’re searching for the best little ranch work vehicle for your ranch or property, you may incline toward the farm vehicles of yesteryear; Ford 9Ns, Farmall Cubs, Fordsons, and the such. The fascination is reasonable since these are genuine works of art of cultivating, offering a charm of a notorious nature and an alluring value point. You can discover great arrangements on these, accessible in different phases of disregard thronw over the pages of those work vehicle locater magazines, yet in case you’re chasing for an utilitarian instrument for the ranch, you might be looking in the wrong place.

Farm vehicles are not on the bleeding edge of science, yet you might be ignorant of how far they’ve come and exactly how obsolete those collectibles are. Producers have grown new frameworks and brought together numerous interfaces since the age of the Farmall, making best little homestead work vehicles that are powerful, lithe, reliable, and handily changed to fit the job needing to be done. Once upon a time, a farm truck was a work vehicle, yet today there is a wide exhibit of choices accessible, and that can be overpowering. Track with as I explain a couple of things about the present current setup, and help you choose what kind of farm vehicle will fit you best.

Transmissions

Farm vehicles have been utilizing apparatus and grasp style transmissions for quite a while, and many experienced administrators are more alright with this reliable plan. Today, in any case, the a lot of farm haulers sold have hydrostatic transmissions, which improve and muddle the demonstration of inspiring a work vehicle all simultaneously, particularly in case you’re utilized to a grip. Rather than delivering a grasp and having your farm truck sway forward, you would now be able to choose your apparatus or speed go, at that point push the forward or invert pedal to adjust the speed and heading you need to go. This sort of transmission is a demonstrated plan and will in general last longer than conventional manual transmission grips. With a hydrostatic transmission, you can crawl along without consuming a grip, which is extremely helpful. In the event that you end up feathering a farm hauler’s grasp regularly, hydrostatic will work well for you. Give the two styles a shot before you purchase to choose which style you’re more OK with.

Tasteful Tractors

Farm truck makers presently offer numerous sizes of work vehicles, normally assembled by “class.” These classes are planned considering an objective client so capacity, force, alternatives, and value focuses fluctuate appropriately. As a rule, all farm vehicle producers offer a sub-smaller, conservative, moderate size, and full-size class run. Not all vendors offer all the classes, so understanding what class you’re looking for will help when choosing where to shop.

Sub Compact

Sub-reduced farm vehicles are the lower part of the force bend and are (as a rule) a garden farm truck on steroids. Farm vehicles in this class are restricted to a Cat-0 hitch in view of their size. The vast majority of the sub-minimal farm trucks of today are viable with front-end loaders, yet with load cutoff points of 500 lbs or less at the pail, they qualify as self-pushed work carts.

On account of the sub-minimized rage, producers are currently offering mid-transport PTOs in most, if not all work vehicles. Mid-transport PTOs are “power take off” focuses, much like the back PTO spline that can run your shrub hoard. These mid-boat, or midsection PTOs permit a work vehicle to control a gut cutter, similar to your ordinary ride-on grass farm hauler, just a lot greater. Having a mid-transport PTO additionally opens up the choice of including a front mounted, PTO-driven snow blower, which advances to those of us in the northern atmospheres. Many sub-conservative work vehicles are currently accessible with diesel motors and four-wheel drive, which is a significant update in ease of use. You can anticipate that strength evaluations should be in the youngsters or low 20’s, best case scenario, which limits what kind of gear you can run.

In the event that you need a major grass tIf you need a major garden farm truck with a pail loader, it could be John Deere 1023E is the ideal initial bundle for any mortgage holder hoping to handle garden and yard support with their first work vehicle. The moderate 1-Series, front-end loader and roll over trimmer deck combo is a congenial however amazing arrangement with space to develop as you take on more projects.ractor with a pail loader, this could possibly your ticket, yet I don’t prompt purchasing a small work vehicle like this for ranch use. In case you’re not kidding about cultivating or homesteading today, you are probably going to be baffled by a sub-minimized farm truck’s absence of intensity, capacity, or execution. In the event that the greatest burden you intend to lift is grass clippings and leaves, at that point you can hope to pay around $12,000 for this larger than average nursery farm truck.

Minimal

Minimal farm haulers are a knock up from sub-reduced, yet a little knock. Reduced farm trucks are offered in Cat-0 or Cat-1 hitches. A 4×4 is by all accounts standard at this size, as does a three-chamber diesel motor, which is uplifting news. All minimal farm trucks I’ve seen are viable with sensibly vigorous container loaders. Hearty or not, these can loaders are still evaluated for under 900 pounds at the basin, so mull over that.

The minimized class connects the emanations hole, which means a large number of these farm vehicles offer drive evaluations either side of 27 hp, which is the cutoff for non-discharges controlled motors. For what reason would it be a good idea for you to mind? Emanations frameworks on work vehicles are a generally new innovation and still can’t seem to be demonstrated in unwavering quality and life span. A long time down the line, you might be taking a gander at costly emanation framework fixes, and the consideration of these frameworks drive up the price tag. On the off chance that three or four horse powers don’t generally have any kind of effect to you, and the minimized class is the place you’re shopping, at that point go for a non-discharges work vehicle for the present.

Minimized work vehicles sit in a problematic spot, connecting both the emanations hole and hitch classifications, which implies many reduced farm trucks will be excessively wide for a Cat-0 actualize, however underpowered for some Cat-1 executes. In spite of this, I would exhort inclining toward a Cat-1 prepared farm truck since I’d preferably have the last issue.

A considerable lot of these conservative farm haulers fit on a scene trailer, which makes them simpler to move than their bigger brethren. As a result of their size, they likewise will in general be less scary to the first run through farm hauler proprietor. They likewise offer an agreeable value point, ordinarily somewhere close to $15,000 and $23,000 contingent upon choices and model, making them feasible for some individuals. Therefore, a few people will locate their best little homestead farm hauler in this class size.

Caring for Chicks Aged 0 to 1 Month

Caring for Chicks

Any farmer who breeds chickens knows that the foundations of their health, like all living organisms, are laid from the moment of birth.

“Egg-chicken-chicken” is a logical path that any healthy poultry goes through in its development, and it is important for a person to especially carefully monitor the development of a chicken in the first months after its birth.

Chickens: care and feeding

Caring for chickens at home requires a person to understand all the processes that occur with a living organism after birth. Chicks that the farmer must care for and raise are particularly demanding on the environment in the first ten days after birth. They need to be allocated a warm, dry and clean room, in which there is always fresh air, but there are no drafts.

You can place no more than 25 chickens on one square meter, so that the babies have free space. For the first five days, chickens should be kept on a floor covered with paper with feed and cereals. So they can eat without harm to health. It is worth remembering that chickens, chickens, which must be carefully cared for, cannot live on a cold floor, otherwise there is a chance of catching a cold. At an early age, the body of chickens is not yet able to cope with infections on its own, and therefore the chick can simply die from any disease. Caring for chicks from the first days should be maximum, and this will have to spend your own time. In the first ten days, babies are fed every two hours with finely chopped boiled eggs, cottage cheese with semolina or corn grits. One egg or 50 g of cottage cheese and 50 g of cereals will be enough for 10 chickens. In order to ensure that babies have all the necessary trace elements, broiler nursing chicks begin to feed on compound feed from the moment of birth.

Day-old chicks: care, feeding

Caring for chickens from 0 days should consist in the right conditions and a well-chosen diet. It will not be superfluous to give chickens lightly ground rolled oats flakes or mixed feed with milk powder and a multivitamin tablet. In this case, after each feeding, you need to carefully examine the chicks’ goiter to make sure that everyone is full. Caring for chickens in the early days should also include feeding finely chopped greens, which can be given from three days of age. A week after birth, chickens can already be given mash with curdled milk or broth.

Also, caring for chickens consists in feeding potatoes, grated carrots, pumpkin and other vegetables that adults can also eat. It is worth remembering that if the chickens have not eaten the wet mash, then you should not leave it until the next feeding, otherwise the babies may be poisoned. Therefore, chicken feed should always be fresh, as well as drinking water. As a disinfectant, once every two weeks, you can give babies a weak solution of potassium permanganate, but you should not do this immediately after their birth. Day-old chick care should be about providing feed. Immediately after the chicks pop out from under the hen, they start looking for food. Some farmers are sure that babies need to be fed only on the second day, but from the very beginning it is better to scatter small grains or chopped eggs. Then the chickens eat up more quickly, and the residual yolk is more likely to be absorbed in them, which ensures the qualitative development of the body. It is important to provide chickens with a living temperature – it should be at least +30 degrees in the first five days, and +28 degrees from the sixth day. Every week it is worth lowering the temperature by three degrees, so that in a month it will be no more than +18 degrees. Babies can be taken out on the street from the age of three, if it is warm outside, but you need to gradually get used to walking. The chicks’ water needs to be changed several times a day and the babies have enough feeders and drinkers to keep them from crowding around them.

Composting for Beginners

Composting for Beginners

Most natural ways you can make your garden grow better, it’s composting.

Compost is one of those things that people are worried about because it’s going to be hard to do, it’s complicated , it’ll smell funny, and it takes a long time. now that’s true if you do it, you know, the wrong way.

The right way is to just take a very simple approach. we’re gonna do composting for beginners today which is really trying to use some of the things from your refrigerator and your kitchen and your yard that normally would go into the landfill and these items can take up to a quarter of the landfills mass on a yearly basis.

Start with stuff from your kitchen what I love about composting it’s a great way to use the things in your refrigerator that you didn’t quite get to that start to turn or go bad you don’t feel wasteful about that.

Also anytime you’re peeling anything you can use all those peels all those cucumber peels any sort of skins off of fruits and vegetables.

So all the vegetables that you have in your house those are great for compost those are easy to do only one to kind of think about if you’re a beginning composter is onions and garlic.

Both those things some people think repel earthworms which are vital part of the composting process so I’d avoid those if you’re just starting out.

Another thing that I try to as a beginning composter I would avoid is eggshells.

You can crush them up but I find if you’re just starting out and your compost is new they don’t break down as much.

So you’re gonna have those little eggshell pieces and you’re in your compost when you pull it out.

Composting is all about the microbial action of your compost pile.

You can either just make a three by three three foot by three foot compost pile on the ground but there’s also all sorts of compost makers you can use that are black plastic.

The black plastic helps it heat up. Heat is really a vital thing for composting that heat helps the microbes break down the organic matter.

What do we put in our compost we talked about vegetables we talked about onions and eggs eggshells as kind of advanced items same with citrus peels those can take a while.

One of my favorite things is coffee grounds if you’re doing coffee like I do every day you go you actually accumulate quite a lot of coffee grounds those can go right in the compost if you used unbleached filters those can go in as well.

Over here we have two things that go into compost and something in process.

This is coffee grounds and I like herb tea so these are herbs from my garden and after I make the tea I put them in here.

These are great for composting you’re gonna want to combo your green items which were wet with your brown items which are dry so that’s kind of the science that’s the only real science you need to think about with composting is having the green and the brown together in the right amounts.

So start with the brown add the green and you just layer that up so when you go and look at your compost pile if it seems a little too wet and you smell anything at all add more Brown.

If you go and you look at it and it seems dry you might want to add more green and you might even want to put some water in it to make it moist.

It really should smell like good soil as it’s being made this has kind of been processed this compost it has a few leaves in it it has some twigs in it those will never compost.

So if you want to be strict with your compost don’t put those twigs in but these leaves will all break down with the green and the brown and ultimately you’re gonna have this beautiful it’s almost like chocolate cake.

That’s what some people talk about it feels kind of like crumbled chocolate cake and it smells great it really just smells sweet.

It doesn’t it smells like really great soil and slightly sweet and so this is the black gold that gardeners are after they’re really after this compost that they can use in their garden you can apply it to your flowerbeds;

It’s a very gentle fertilizer and it really will help all your plants perk up and at the end of the day composting is one of the best ways to recycle and it’s also one of the best ways to have the healthiest garden you could have.

We’ve talked about all the things that are good for the beginning composter here’s some things that aren’t good to compost and that is any meat dairy products.

I personally avoid cooked items like oatmeal even although that can work really well.

But I find that some of these things can really make your compost go bad and start to really smell also they do attract more animals and pests and you might want.

So one way to accumulate all your good stuff that you have all your peelings and tea and coffee grounds is just have a container in your kitchen.

I just use a crock like a earthenware pot that I put it in it kind of forces me to deal with it more often it’s not very big.

If you want to have if you have a lot of waste or a medium amount of waste this is a good one.

You might have to empty it every few days but it’s a good way to just easily put it in a counter top and then you can take it out to the compost pile.

So if you’re starting your compost pile out I think one of the best ways to get all those microbes humming is to take some compost starter.

You can buy this online from a variety of brands and you just want to get an organic compost starter that is full of microbes that are ready to go and it has some alfalfa and kelp meal in there as well and you

Can add that to your starter compost and then put some water on it and then you do that once you know you can do that several times a year or so every other month.

So after a few months in the compost bin you’ll have this great compost which kind of looks like crumbled chocolate cake and you can just spread it on your flowerbeds and in your pots and with just these kitchen scraps and a little bit of time and the right microbes you’ll have the happiest garden you can have.

Asparagus Growing

Asparagus Growing

What is asparagus?

Basically, we’re eating the young shoots of a plant that’s probably native to the Mediterranean, though that’s hard to pin down.

Five thousand-year-old asparagus was discovered in ancient Egyptian tombs.

The ancient Greeks foraged for it in wet marshy areas; and it was so popular with the Romans, that Emperor Augustus coined the phrase
“faster than asparagus is cooked”, which meant, well, really fast!

Now, while it doesn’t take long to cook asparagus, it does take a little longer to grow…

Only about five years.

That’s how long it takes to go from seed to a fully yielding plant.

Farmers can get spears at year two, but if they want healthy long living plants, they don’t pick those.

At years three and four, farmers will start to harvest, but the plant won’t deliver a full season’s worth of asparagus.

See, farming asparagus is playing the long game

Asparagus is a perennial – that means they’re not pulled out at the end of the harvest season, like cucumbers or tomatoes, most of our common vegetables.

Here at Sheppard farms, they’ll keep a field for up to 20 years.

To get a jump on everything, farmers don’t plant seeds, they plant crowns.

That’s the name for root clusters that have been grown from seed by breeders.

Breeders get seeds from the fruits of the asparagus plant. That’s right – asparagus grows fruits, and they’re actually poisonous to humans!

The fruits grow once the female flowers are pollinated.

This meager yield is one reason that asparagus is such a delicacy.

It also has an extremely short harvest window, just eight weeks in the spring.

A mature plant will grow no more than 16 spears each season.

I know that doesn’t sound like much, but consider this: Shepherd farms harvests over 10,000 plants per acre – with 400 acres, that’s a lot to pick in a short period of time.

And to top it off, asparagus grows really fast – 6 inches in a day, or more! if it grows too tall, it starts to get tough and woody.

So picking asparagus is truly a race against time.

So this side is sharp, but this side is not sharp.

And they use this like a knife, to basically machete the ends off.

All right, you show me how to do that first. I’m a little bit scared.

At the end of the harvest season, the plants are allowed to fern out.

Branching out at the spear tips and growing wispy fronds.

All of this growth will be mowed down before next year’s harvest begins

From the field, the asparagus heads straight to the packing plant where it’s cleaned, cooled and sorted into one-pound bundles of about twenty spears.

In the U.S, green asparagus is the most popular, but there are purple varieties too, which are actually sweeter than green.

The purple ones do turn green though, when they’re cooked.

In much of Europe, the most prized asparagus is white, which is really just green asparagus that’s grown in the dark…

The technique is called blanching.

Dirt is mounded over the roots, so high that spears never see the sun, which means they never photosynthesize, and never build up the green pigment called chlorophyll.

I’ve never eaten fresh white asparagus, but I’m told it has a more delicate, less earthy taste than green.

I tried in the field today, you know, a spear of just freshly…

Asparagus is one of the most nutrition packed vegetables.

It’s got vitamin A, B6, C, E, Folate, Calcium. The list goes on.

It also leaves behind another gift:

Asparagus pee…

See, asparagus contains the unique chemical:

Our bodies break that down into various sulfur compounds and it’s the sulfur that gives urine its unmistakable Asparagus stink

There is a weird twist to this whole phenomenon, and you can discover that by watching this…

Whatever minor consequences we may endure, that’s never stopped us from enjoying this springtime star.

It’s been on the menu for over 5,000 years

Oh, you’re still here! I like that! Getting the full value for your video! While you’re here, click that “subscribe” button. It’s free!

Breeding Chickens at Home

Breeding Chickens

Chickens have always helped people out in difficult times. If you grow chickens at home, then there is always meat and eggs. It is important to say that raising chickens is not difficult. Even children can safely participate in the process of raising poultry. If you look at the village courtyard, you will hardly find a house where there are no chickens. Chickens are unpretentious birds. They need minimal grooming and also some food. In summer, chickens can be kept outside, where they will have grass, insects and sand. This method of holding a bird of a normal breed is most suitable.

Every refrigerator should have dietary foods – eggs and chicken. There is not a lot of fat in chicken meat, which is why it is called dietary. In addition, eggs are high in protein and healthy amino acids.

It is worth noting, however, that home-grown chicken is different from farm-raised chicken. Homemade chicken is much healthier as it is raised on homemade products. Farm chickens eat a lot of artificial feed that stimulates their growth, which is not very good.

Domesticated chickens lay eggs with bright yellow yolks. Those eggs that are sold in the store were laid by the hens of farmers. There the yolks are pale (see photo). This suggests that they are low in carotene.

Breeding chickens for beginners

So, we see that raising chickens at home is a useful activity. However, not everyone even knows where to start. And today we will tell you about it. First you need to fill your brain with all possible knowledge about this bird – chicken. If we evaluate the case as a whole, then it seems that there is nothing complicated. However, the details are more complicated. To avoid unnecessary problems, you need to determine which chickens are better to grow at home, what kind of feed they should be “treated” with. It is important to know how to breed.

There are many ways to find the information you need. It could be a book, advice from experienced farmers, and, of course, the Internet. If you are going to grow chickens professionally, then remember that all the costs will not immediately pay off. You need to start raising chickens with a small amount. We take only unpretentious breeds. Now is the time to take care of where the bird will live. This can be a simple hedge outside, a shed, or under a shed. Cells can be made. Here you have to think about their sizes and materials that will be needed.

Chicken coop

The chicken coop is one of the most important structures for keeping birds not only at home, but also on farms. If you plan to keep chickens in winter, then you must definitely create a chicken coop where the air will be heated. It is just as easy to find any information on the Internet on how to properly create a chicken coop with your own hands.

The size of the chicken coop is directly related to how many birds will be kept. The calculation, for example, will be for 10 chickens. So, here are the nuances to consider.

Before you start building a chicken coop, you need to create a simple blueprint. It is impossible to make mistakes, since the lack of the necessary conditions in the building for chickens will lead to the fact that the bird will stop laying eggs, or even start to get sick. Therefore, it is advisable to prepare well. You cannot listen to those “advisers” who say that a chicken coop can be created from improvised means.

It is important to choose the right place for the location of the chicken coop. It should be in a moderately lit area, not humid. A place for poultry walking is required. The best chicken coop is one that gets light all day.

For one chicken, it is necessary to allocate up to a square meter for walking. It is so easy to calculate how much space you need in general for walking the bird.

Building a chicken coop with your own hands

Once you have chosen a place for a chicken coop and a walk, you can start construction:

  • It is not recommended to build a chicken coop directly on the ground. In addition to the fact that the bird will be cold, it will also be threatened by rodents, such as rats. The base can be made of concrete. You can simply make the flooring from the boards. The process of creating the foundation is not difficult, but you still have to work.
  • The most crucial moment is the creation of walls. They must be strong and not let in the wind. You can use not only boards, but also aerated concrete – small lightweight blocks. As an option – make adobe filling of the walls. It all depends on how much money you are willing to spend on the construction of the structure. The main task is to make the chicken coop warm.
  • For the roof, timber, boards and slate are used. It is desirable that the roof is also insulated. The bird walking area must be fenced off with a net. A great option for a roof is a gable structure. So it will be possible to store tools and other utensils on it, which are needed when keeping birds.
  • The interior design of the chicken coop is an important step. First of all, lighting and insulation are equipped if the chickens winter here. For light, ordinary 60-watt bulbs are used. It is advisable to make a couple of windows so that natural light enters the chicken coop. If the walls are not sufficiently insulated, then a heating system must be created. Electric heaters are used.
  • Do not forget about the feeders and perches in the chicken coop. In advance, you need to prepare tools for cleaning the chicken coop. So everything is ready. It’s time to think about what to feed the chickens. Sometimes one compound feed is enough. But it is better if you add grain to the chicken diet. Of course, household food waste can also be fed to chickens.
  • As for the offspring, you can not buy it, but independently bring it out in an incubator. However, it should be noted that this task is very difficult. It is necessary to stock up not only knowledge, but also patience, since many birds may die during the growing process. The easiest way is to buy ready-made chickens.
  • In order to understand what expenses go to chickens, estimate documentation is drawn up. It includes absolutely all costs associated with the bird. This is both food and the construction of a chicken coop.

What breed of chickens is better for a novice poultry breeder

The most important thing is the choice of the bird breed. This stage is determined at the very beginning. You need to determine what you need: meat, eggs, or both.

  1. Broilers work well for meat. These are birds that are raised in spring, summer, and chopped in autumn. In a short period of time, the bird grows up and is ready for slaughter. However, broilers are very difficult to grow in incubators.
  2. In order to have both meat and eggs, you need to buy ordinary Russian white chickens or red white-tailed chickens. It is noteworthy that these breeds will also be an excellent decoration for the yard. There are even chicken exhibitions. The bird may not be large, but it lays eggs well.

And now you need to decide where to buy laying hens? You can do this at a bazaar, in special farms or just at a neighbor’s, which happens in villages. There are many possibilities. It is best to buy chickens from trusted suppliers. This way you can get not only a guarantee that the bird is healthy, but also some advice on its correct breeding.

Tips for Beginner Poultry Breeders

It may seem that raising chickens is a simple matter. But as soon as the matter moves from words to real cultivation, difficulties arise.

  • So, chickens need to be well and properly fed.
  • In order for a bird to lay eggs, it must be given, in addition to ordinary food, grass and insects. She can get this for herself, walking on the street. But sooner or later the grass ends up on the site, so you have to collect it on the lawn. In addition, the bird needs to be fed with purchased feed, calcium.
  • Always give the hens only fresh water. This is especially important for broilers who drink a lot of water.
  • It is important to create a comfortable nest. If the hen feels uncomfortable, then it will begin to lay not in the nest, but in other places from where it will be difficult to extract eggs.
  • The chicken should be warm and dry.
  • Feed the bird twice a day if there is grass in its diet. Waste from the table is great.
  • After you have experience raising a dozen chickens, you can try buying more birds. As you can see, there is no easy job. However, it is much more pleasant to eat chicken meat that is grown by your own hands.